Waterslide decal paper

Waterslide decal paper (also known as cold decal or water-slide transfer paper) is an A4 sheet that moves your printed design onto a hard object with warm water: a mug, a glass, a candle, a tile, a scale model. You print on an ordinary home inkjet or laser printer — no screen printing, no ceramic kiln firing. The range holds seven combinations of paper type, print technology and image base, each in two packs: 2 sheets to try it, 10 to work in runs. Below — four questions that lead to your pack, and how not to mix up the workflows.

    Sorting:

    Waterslide decal paper

     
    3 typesworkflows: Regular, Film Free, Varnish Free
    2 colorsimage bases: transparent and white
    A4the format of every sheet here
    2 and 10sheets per pack: trial and series
    Inkjet and laserseparate paper for each print type

    How to choose: four questions

     

    First — which printer you own: inkjet or laser. Ink paper and toner paper are not interchangeable. Second — which surface: a transparent base works on light objects, while on dark or saturated colors a design without a white backing sinks into the background. Third — which paper type: it defines whether you need varnish, a laminator or an oven. Fourth — which pack: 2 sheets to try the technique or close a small project, 10 to work in runs.

    VariantPrinterPrint protection before waterWhat stays on the objectWho it is for
    Regular inkjetInkjetAcrylic spray varnish, 3 thin coats (bought separately)Design on a thin transparent or white filmThe classic with a minimal start: printer, varnish and warm water
    Regular laserLaserNot needed — toner is waterproofDesign on a thin carrier filmThe shortest workflow: print, soak, slide
    Film Free laserLaserNo varnish needed, but two oven bakes are mandatoryToner only — the film comes off after the first bake, a direct-print lookFor those bothered by the glossy film edge around the design
    Varnish Free inkjet (A+B)InkjetFilm B laminated over sheet A instead of varnishDesign under a protective filmFor those who prefer a laminator and an oven to spray varnish
    Each paper type has its own workflow

    Varnish, laminator or oven are not needed by every type alike: one paper's instructions do not fit another.

    Before printing, open the product page of your exact type and follow its steps.

    Starter packs: seven combinations

     

    Every combination of type, print technology and color comes in two packs — 2 sheets to try and 10 for a run. Below are the starter two-sheet packs; the 10-sheet packs sit next to them on the product pages. The color rule is simple: transparent for light surfaces, white for dark and colored ones.

    Is this your material at all?

     
    You want your own design, logo or text on a hard non-porous object: ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, varnished wood, a candle
    You have an ordinary home or office printer — inkjet or laser
    You work from a trial piece to a small series: 2-sheet packs to start, 10-sheet packs for a run — no screen printing or industrial kilns
    The surface is dark or saturated in color — take the white base only: a transparent decal gets lost on dark
    You print on an inkjet — plan for sealing: acrylic varnish bought separately, or the Varnish Free type with film B
    You need the design on fabric — take heat transfer paper: it works with a press, not water
    You need the design on skin — that is temporary tattoo paper: a similar mechanism, a different purpose
    You need dishwasher-proof tableware or a print in the food-contact zone — a cold decal does not offer that: it is decor for hand washing

    From file to object

     
    PrintStraight printing (Film Free — mirrored), on the glossy side of the sheet.
    Protect the printBy paper type: Regular inkjet — acrylic varnish; Varnish Free — laminating with film B; laser types — nothing.
    SoakWarm water: 30–50 seconds (Film Free and Varnish Free — 30–60) — until the film starts moving freely on the backing.
    TransferSlide the film onto the object and smooth it from the center, pushing out water and bubbles.
    FixRegular — 150 °C for 10–15 minutes or ~3 days of natural drying; Varnish Free — oven baking at 150–160 °C; Film Free — two bakes: 100 °C, remove the film, 190 °C (details on the type's product pages).
    Tip: A “cold” decal does not mean “no heat at all”: it means no ceramic kiln firing. Some types still need a household oven.

    Where it works

     
    Handmade decor: mugs, glasses, plates, tiles
    A personal design without a print shop — in one evening
    Handmade candles and soap
    A logo or label on the finished piece: the thin film hugs the surface
    Scale models and miniatures
    Emblems, markings, fine text — the transparent base does not cover the paintwork
    Custom instruments
    A logo on a guitar headstock, a device body, varnished wood
    Nail design
    Sliders with your own artwork for manicure
    Small-run souvenirs
    A series of mugs or glasses for an event: a 10-sheet pack — and the run is done

    Where people fail most often

     
    The inkjet print “melted” in water

    Cause: water-based ink dissolves without sealing

    Fix: before water — acrylic varnish in 3 thin coats, each left to dry; or the Varnish Free type, where film B does the protection
    A transparent decal “vanished” on a dark mug

    Cause: printers do not print white: white and transparent areas of the design show the object's color

    Fix: for dark and colored surfaces — the paper with a white base
    The paper does not match the printer

    Cause: coatings for ink and for toner differ, so inkjet paper does not work in a laser printer, and vice versa

    Fix: check the print type in the product name against your printer
    Mixed up the type workflows

    Cause: Varnish Free instructions (laminator, oven) do not apply to Regular — and vice versa

    Fix: follow the product page of your exact paper type
    The decal rubbed off after washing

    Cause: abrasives and dishwashers destroy the decorative layer

    Fix: wash by hand with a soft sponge — and honestly warn your customers about it

    Where to go next

     

    Equipment and materials that pair with decals, plus neighboring transfer technologies.

    FAQ about "Paper for cold storage":

    A decal is a transfer image: the printed design moves onto the object through warm water, when the water-soluble layer of the paper releases a thin film. “Cold” means no ceramic firing: the most some types need is a household oven (up to 190 °C for Film Free).

    Every product comes in two packs: 2 and 10 A4 sheets. A 2-sheet pack is enough to try the technique on your printer and surface or to close a small project — one sheet fits several designs. The 10-sheet pack is for runs: event souvenirs, small production, regular orders.

    A fired (ceramic) decal is baked in a kiln at 500–900 °C: the film burns away and the pigment fuses into the glaze — the image becomes permanent. A cold decal is fixed without firing and lives as a decorative coating washed by hand. This category is the cold kind.

    It depends on the type. Regular and Varnish Free print straight: the decal lands on the object face up. Film Free prints mirrored: the design lands face against the object, so unmirrored text would come out reversed.

    Products marked “for inkjet printer”: Regular transparent or white (plus acrylic varnish bought separately) or Varnish Free (A+B), where film B replaces the varnish.

    Film Free is a “film-less” laser paper: the film comes off after the first oven bake, leaving only toner on the piece, so the result looks like direct printing. Varnish Free is a “no varnish” inkjet set: printed sheet A plus protective film B that replaces spray varnish.

    Hard non-porous ones: ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, polished or varnished wood, candles, soap. For fabric there is heat transfer paper, for skin — tattoo paper.

    By hand with a soft sponge — yes. Dishwasher, microwave and abrasives — no. On tableware, place the design in the decorative zone, not where people eat or drink from.